Tag: Travel Journal

  • A Flying Visit to Mumbai and Delhi

    A Flying Visit to Mumbai and Delhi

    Stu and I are back in India, wahoo!!!

    Our first stop, India‘s city of dreams- Mumbai!

    “One snap please?”

    Most backpackers stay in Colaba which is where a lot of Mumbai’s attractions are.

    Our weird hotel room in Mumbai which had no ceiling

    We stayed in a weird hotel called The India Guesthouse. Imagine you’re on a TV set in a big open hall and there’s partition walls lined up to make the rooms, it was like that. We had no ceiling, so you could hear everything that was going on outside the room and it was so bright from everyone else’s light.

    It was very popular with travellers and as we found out, bedbugs! Stu was bitten badly by these hungry blood suckers on our first night there. He awoke with a swollen lip where he had been lying on his front. He looked like he’d been beaten up! Luckily the swelling had gone down a bit by the time we got up.

    Taj Mahal Palace

    Around the corner from our hotel was a much grander and slightly more elite hotel called, The Taj Mahal Palace. It made worldwide news in November 2008 for being attacked by terrorists. It’s still standing in all it’s glory, but with much higher security now.

    Gateway to India

    The Gateway to India was a short walk away from our hotel and was very popular with Indian tourists.

    It is a great piece of architecture, designed by the Brits in 1924 and ironically 24 years later the British architects used the arch to sail away from, as India marched towards their independence. It is free to see and it’s also where you board the ferry to visit Elephanta Island.

    Statue on Elephanta Island

    Elephanta Island is in the middle of Mumbai Harbour, 9km northeast of the Gateway of India. Home to the labyrinth of Hindu cave temples, which is listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site and thought to have been created between AD 450 and 750.

    The main Shiva dedicated temple is the most impressive of them, featuring a 6m tall statue of Sadhashiva, depicting a three faced Shiva as the destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe.

    Three faced Shiva
    Elephanta Island

    Mumbai is full of interesting architecture in a mixture of styles- Gothic, Victorian, Art Deco and Islamic.

    Art Deco style cinema in Colaba

    If you’ve ever read the book, Shantaram, you’ll recognise some of the places mentioned in Colaba, like Leopold’s Cafe.

    Me at Lodi Gardens!

    We were only in Delhi for a few hours with enough time to do one thing, and being Monday most things were closed in the city.

    Checking our trusty guidebook for things to do, we decided on Lodi Gardens. With no expectations we found the underground and went through all the usual security checks with separate male and female queues and jumped on the very busy train to Khan Market station.

    There was quite an upmarket shopping complex with the reliable Indian coffee giant, Cafe Coffee Day. After a strong americano and a quick subway lunch we were back on our way to Lodi Gardens.

    15th century ruins at Lodi Gardens

    If anyone’s been to one of India’s parks you’ll know they’re usually full of Indian men sleeping, wild dogs, rubbish and sometimes random sculptures of animals.

    These gardens however had a lovely bridge at the entrance which went over fairly clean water and led you down to a delightful path though trees and pretty flowers. As we walked amongst squirrels, birds and secret lovers trying to find alone time, we too were enjoying this quiet and serene place in India’s busy bustling capital.

    15th century ruins at Lodi Gardens

    It was a lovely sunny and very hot day so we decided to find a place to sit a read for a bit. As we turned a corner we found beautiful ruins from the 15th century in the style of the Taj Mahal.

    We were in awe of the iconic dome roofs, the intricate Islamic carvings and the hint of blue that could still be seen from old tiles.

    Beautiful blue tiles on the 15th century ruins

    After a pleasant day in Delhi we were back on the train heading for the holiest of Sikh destinations, the town of Amritsar, known for the sacred Golden Temple.

  • Day 359: A Girl Travelling Alone in India

    Day 359: A Girl Travelling Alone in India

    Hummm maybe a bit too much luggage!
    With my place on a Laughter Yoga Teaching Course secured, I had to get myself to Bangalore. Stu I had been travelling almost a year by this point, and had never been apart for even a day! Is that healthy?!

    So, I was about to deal with new experiences, new feelings, and having to be a new grown up woman travelling all by herself in crazy India.

    I’d heard of all the stereotypes of being stared at and groped by Indian men. Also not being acknowledged or respected as a woman. This was not something I was looking forward to!

    I had pre-arranged an auto-rickshaw before Stu and I said our goodbyes in Hampi, 9 hours north of Bangalore.

    The driver had acted friendly and genuine and I felt safe about travelling alone with him late at night. However, when I went back to meet the driver, he had turned weird. He barely communicated when I greeted him, and he watched me struggle with my bags. He said he didn’t realise it was just me he was taking.

    Before we left Hampi he pulled over by a chai stand, and said something confusing about his usual fare being a lot more, and did I understand what he was saying. He made me feel uncomfortable. Throughout the journey he was moaning about how tired he was, but it was only 7pm! I kept my penknife close, just in case!

    I was getting a sleeper bus to Bangalore City. I was worried it would be an awful experience and the roads would be in bad condition. Surprisingly, the bus felt like luxury, compared to Indian trains and I even had a bit of privacy with my own curtain!

    I had to get used to thinking for number one, being brave and keeping myself entertained.

    It would appear that staring is acceptable in Indian culture. This can be very uncomfortable for western travellers, especially if you are on your own. Luckily the people on my bus didn’t seem that interested in me and just wanted to sleep.

    Arriving into an unknown place in Bangalore, in the early and dark hours of the morning was an unpleasant start to my long day.

    I was thrown off the bus by the side of the road and didn’t know where I was or where to go. And most frustrating, I didn’t have any small change for the notorious rip-off rickshaw drivers!

    Deep breath…..

    Not having a clue what to do, I found my way to a safe and comforting environment at 5am- Bangalore’s International Airport. I sat there for 2 or 3 hours, eating subway sandwiches and drinking strong coffee, while trying to figure out what I was going to do for the rest of my day.

    It felt strange having to make decisions all by myself, without confiding in Stu. I wanted a moment to myself before I ventured out the airport to be bombarded by touts and taxi drivers. There was also a nagging thought that I was already spending a lot more money being by myself.

    On a sleeper train in India
    I got dropped of at a ‘budget’ hotel not far from the airport. It was very expensive for Indian prices, but it was close to my course that was starting the following day.

    So with peace of mind that I would get to my course on time, I could now relax and prepare for the course.

    I was so excited about getting to the retreat and starting my Laughter Yoga Teaching Course. I had arranged a non-English speaking auto-rickshaw driver with the man from the corner shop.

    The next morning to my amazement, the driver not only turned up on time, but managed to drive me to my destination with only a few wrong turns and communication issues! I didn’t help by loosing the retreats address!

    My Laughter Yoga Teaching Course was a complete success! I was taught by the creator of this unique concept. I learnt a lot of new and exciting things. And going on the course has reconfirmed that I love laughter yoga and would like to pursue a career teaching it.

    Back together again!
    I had already pre-booked my sleeper train out of Bangalore for the night following my course.

    I was really looking forward to seeing Stu again and relaxing on a beach in Goa. Nobody was able to get on the wrong side of me that evening!

    Stu and I have now been reunited and are currently kicking back on Palolem Beach in Goa. I am so happy to be back with my travel buddy.

    But, I have definitely been through a learning curve travelling alone as a girl in India.

    I feel confident that I could do it again. I would say that the positives to travelling alone are that you communicate with other people much more– travellers and locals. You have to think for yourself, which makes you independent. And you have the freedom to do more of the things that you want to do.

    Everyone should try a bit of solo travel!

  • Happy Anniversary! We’ve Been Travelling a YEAR!

    Happy Anniversary! We’ve Been Travelling a YEAR!

    Saturday 31st March 2012 marks a year Stu and Eloise have been travelling the globe!!!

    The VERY start of our journey at Luton airport!

    It feels like a lifetime ago when we stepped onto the plane back home. We’ve learnt so much over the last year, met so many people and been to so many amazing countries.

    Me and Eloise in Yangshuo, May 2011

    Sadly on our year travelling anniversary, Eloise and I are apart for a 7 nights while she attends a laughter yoga teaching course in Bangalore.

    I plan to head over to Goa and get a 7 day head start on topping up my tan and taking advantage of the budget friendly Goan alcohol taxes! πŸ˜‰

    This is both our first time travelling solo!

    Riding the length of Vietnam in July 2011

    Already my mindset has been forced to change as I now actually have to look after myself. A daunting prospect!

    I fell at the first hurdle by not setting an alarm this morning (an Eloise responsibility) and having a solid 11 hour sleep/lie in.

    Luckily I’m in Historical Hampi at the moment, a traveller hangout filled with plenty of crusties and other backpackers so I’m not totally alone (for those of you who were worried)!

    Over the next few days we will be rounding up our first year of travelling by sharing our favourite places in each country we’ve visited and why!

    Where will we be this time next year?!

    5300m at Throng-La pass, Nepal, November 2011
  • Day 356: Two Strange Things Happened Today…

    Day 356: Two Strange Things Happened Today…

    Departing Kerala, we arrived in Mangalore, Karnataka’s largest coastal city.

    Not really being on India‘s hot-list as tourist destination, we planned to leave the next day by train up to Mysore. Unfortunately the only train was a non-sleeper, cattle car style train leaving late and arriving at 4am. So that was scrapped.

    Which is where the taxi comes in…

    Strange Thing #1: A taxi driver put his meter on… IN INDIA.

    We decided to see whether a bus runs to Mysore. We flagged down a standard auto rickshaw man and his 3 wheeled suicide machine.

    His first question: “Do you speak Hindi?” (No! And odd because in Karnataka, Kannada is the main language.)

    After I replied that I could say ‘water’, ‘how much’ and listed a couple of obscenities, he seemed very pleased and switched the meter on!

    I challenge any other foreign traveller in India to attempt this feat!

    Strange Thing #2: I ate far too much Thail and actually turned down cinema snacks

    Bus ticket secured to Mysore, we set out to sample the local Mangalore cuisine. Spotting a ‘Pantaloon’ cinema chain, we found to our delight that a English film was playing, The Margaret Thatcher biopic, The Iron Lady. Perfect.

    With 45 minutes to kill before the start, we headed to a standard Indian canteen. A ‘pure vegetarian’, metal plate/no cutlery establishment.

    Pre Special-Thali
    Those who have travelled to India, you will be aware of Thali. An all you can eat, multi portion monstrosity that can fill the fattest of fatsos.

    Don’t do what I did and order the SPECIAL Thali.

    Post Special-Thali

    5 minutes to go before the film, we waddled back to the cinema, burping up curry and multiple chapattis, walking straight past the sweet smelling film snacks. Outrageously out of character I know…

    Lessons learnt today:

    Not all rickshaw drivers are scum, and 10 portions of curry is my limit!