Category: Travel Photo Essays

  • Round Up of Our 2012 Travels

    Round Up of Our 2012 Travels

    One of our last stops in India – Agra and the Taj Mahal!

    As another new year approaches, another year passes on our world travel adventure.

    By the time we left India, we’d been there for just over 10 months in total – with a two month break when we went home to England for a visit (and to apply for another Indian visa). It’s only recently dawned on us how long we spent in undoubtedly one of our most crazy, exciting and culturally diverse destinations yet.

    No that’s not champagne, it’s tea!

    We arrived into India from Nepal a few days before Christmas 2011. Our first destination was Darjeeling, where we obviously consumed vast amounts of tea and rode the famous Toy Train. We then embarked on a slow southward course via the east coast.

    We both got very ill in Calcutta, perfecting our squat toilet technique, stopped off in the old hippy hangout of Puri enjoying the stunning beach sunsets, hung out in Mamallapuram with some four legged friends while becoming professional mosquito killers.

    We visited the old French colonial Pondicherry and its incredible churches, dropped into the western cult colony Auroville and had a quick stop in Chennai before heading to Kanyakumari, India’s most southernmost point.

    Kerala was next, spending a good chunk of time on the palm fringed beaches of Varkala. We embarked on a backwater ferry trip, saw water-side villages famous for coir spinning, then headed up to the Hugging Mother Ashram for a touch of (slightly sarcastic) spirituality. We trekked in the tea plantations of Munnar, stayed at a wildlife park in Kumily and met the locals.

    Banana flower! Pretty tasty apparently…

    We got ill again in Mysore, but still enjoyed the amazing food markets there, sweated our asses off in Kochi, before saying goodbye to Kerala and spending time exploring Historical Hampi.

    Not a bad view!

    On our One Year Travelling anniversary, Eloise and I parted for a week or two, me heading to Goa and Eloise travelling alone to Bangalore to become a certified laughter yoga teacher. When we met again we firmly planted ourselves in Patnem for the next 6 weeks, lapping up South Goa’s best beaches and meeting up with fellow travel bloggers, hanging out with beach dogs and the crusties and staring in a Bollywood movie.

    ‘Goofy’ our beach dog chum!

    We’d originally planned to go home for a visit without telling anyone, and we nearly had to go home earlier as doctors thought I might have malaria – but luckily it past and we left back to England in May 2012 for our surprise visit!

    We had an amazing time catching up with friends and family, our friends Rob and Victoria got married, and we used a washing machine for the first time in 6 months!

    When we flew back to India at the start of August, we originally planned 2 months to explore northern India, before moving on to another country. Yeah right… A quick flying visit to Mumbai and Delhi before heading to Amritsar, home to the Golden Temple – The holiest Sikh place of worship. The north was calling, and we travelled to McLeod Ganj then up to Manali.

    Around this time we travelled over some of the highest road passes in the world on our way to the remote Spiti Valley, visting remote monasteries before blasting up to Leh in the northern state of Ladakh. There we got some stunning travel photography which inspired us to write tips on how to survive Indian bus journeys.

    Loaded and ready!

    During a month in Leh, we hired a Royal Enfield and rode to Pangong Lake with our riding buddies, then up to the far far north to the Nubra Valley near the Pakistan border – almost running out of petrol on the way back to Leh.

    Long exposure fireworks effect!

    Braving the Leh-Manali Highway on the return south, we passed back through Manali and spent a totally unplanned long stint in McLeod Ganj. 6 weeks later we went to Rishikesh for the Diwali celebrations, before heading to Rajasthan for a final month trying to cram as much in as possible.

    Let it all hang out!

    We visitied hectic Jaipur, volunteered at Animal Aid in Udaipur, meeting up with new and old friends, stayed in quiet and relatively unspoilt Bundi, stuffed our faces with vegan cake in Pushkar, zip-lined across Jodhpur, saw countless Indian weddings and got sand in all our stuff in Jaisalmer! Finally visiting the Taj Mahal, experiencing the ultimate religious craziness in Varanasi, then ending where we started in Calcutta.


    So our India journey is over, as we move on to new pastures. It was a great year, one we won’t forget quickly – India’s sights and sounds are impossible to forget! We’re so lucky that we’ve made so many amazing friends over the past year. We have no idea where the time has gone! The old “time flies..” saying is very appropriate.

    So where next?!

    We’re spending Christmas and New Years in Thailand with good friends. In 2013 we’re continuing with our plans of becoming location independent, Eloise plans to become a vegan travel guru and we’re heading to Australia!

    Happy New Year!

  • It’s Wedding Season in India!

    It’s Wedding Season in India!

    To me a typical Indian wedding always conjures up images of vibrant colours, outrageously loud music and dancing! During our last month in India, we’re spending time touring the stunning Rajasthan.

    This time of year is wedding season in Rajasthan, and the rest of India! Bizarrely, it’s winter in Rajasthan. You’d never know that, going by the temperature!

    But as it’s the coolest time of year, and the astrology and stars are aligned, the streets are filled with wedding revellers, family, friends, onlookers and well-wishers! Plus the band, the horses, and sometimes the odd elephant!

    When the wedding procession passes through the street, the band and the generator powered loudspeaker wagon usually lead the way.

    Filmed in Pushkar!

    Drums of all sizes are pounded getting the crowd moving, while punishingly loud keyboard notes come blaring out of the band wagon’s tannoy speakers – all mixed with hand-launched fireworks and massive fire crackers.

    Then closely followed by the groom, usually on horseback, turned out in his best wedding day clothes. The ladies follow behind, wearing beautiful jewellery and are dressed in their best and most colourful saris.

    You can see Eloise if you look closely! Filmed in Udaipur

    Speaking to some local guys, they were saying they’ve been to ten weddings so far this season, they thought it was hilarious when I said I’ve only ever been to 3 in my whole life!

    During our stays in Udaipur, Jaipur, Bundi, Pushkar and Jodhpur, there hasn’t been a moment, day or night, when we haven’t heard the sound of passing wedding crowds in the streets.

    It’s an amazing feeling being surrounded by all the colour and happiness an Indian wedding brings. It can be pretty loud and a bit of a jostle, but if you plan to visit India during the wedding season, you won’t be able to miss one!

  • Diwali Fireworks in Rishikesh!

    Diwali Fireworks in Rishikesh!

    After a long stint in McLeod Ganj, we were about ready to head back to the ‘real’ India.

    Rishiskesh was our next destination, about 13 twisty-mountain hours south from McLeod Ganj. Yoga, temples, Sadhu men, Ghats, cows and full-on Hinduism!
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    We arrived a few days before Diwali, a major holiday in the Hindu calendar. Known as the ‘festival of lights’, Diwali translates to “row of lamps” (Check out the much more informative Wikipedia entry).

    Over the 7 nights we were there on the run up to Diwali, Rishiskesh went crazy on decorative lights, with hundreds hanging from hotels, shops and homes. The vibe was very festive, and felt a bit like Christmas back home in England. Apart from the obvious better weather and large number of free roaming cows…

    “Diwali – Festival of Lights” should be known as “Diwali – Festival of f***ing loud fireworks“! For several days before Diwali, Eloise and I were walking around like shell-shocked war casualties, scared of more massive fireworks going off right by our feet! Incredibly loud fireworks rang throughout the Rishikesh valley during the nights, usually followed by a loud “Whooo!” by the culprit who let it off!

    Eloise and stayed in an ashram (not quite as crazy as the ‘hugging mother’ ashram) near the Lakshman Jhula foot bridge in the north of Rishikesh. The fast flowing Ganges, the beautifully lit up temples and near-constant fireworks made an excellent back drop to enjoy Diwali in proper Indian style.

    Totally by chance, I saw on Facebook that my friend Liz from school was in Rishikesh studying yoga on a month long teacher training course. We hadn’t seen each other for about 16 years since we left secondary school, and it would have been silly not to meet up for a chai since we were both in Rishikesh!

    It was great catching up, and had a laugh reminiscing on old school memories. Liz was kind enough to invite us to her yoga school where they had a fireworks party organised, and they’d clearly gone all-out with the fireworks! Coupled with some hilarious safety practices (hand launching rockets, huge bangers exploding in people’s faces, faulty fuses etc) it made for an excellent evening! They even fed us at the end of it all.

    But more importantly dangerous firework practices makes for some cool long exposure shots!

    Which one is your favourite?

    (Oh yeah, don’t forget to check out my photography portfolio website Stu Edwards.com!)

  • Goa Beach Dogs

    Goa Beach Dogs

    Scooby at sunset

    Dog lovers will love the golden shores of Goa. Along with the beautiful surroundings and pristine beaches, the local dogs are friendly and most importantly are used to human contact!

    Unfortunately a lot of locals tend not to like our canine chums, and treat them accordingly. Dogs congregate in the tourist areas, around more tolerant holiday makers hoping that some dinner scraps might come their way.

    'Goofy' was happy about something

    Beach life for the dogs is fraught with doggie complications. Naturally being very territorial, they fight for position within their packs. It’s a daily occurrence to hear them fighting if an outsider dog has strayed onto the wrong patch of beach!


    But all this aside, they’re loving creatures and enjoy human interactions, but they also become very protective of you over time. The longer you stay in Goa, the more doggie friends you will inevitably make!

    Waiting for scraps!
    'Cookie' our shack owners guard dog. Worst guard dog ever!

    Eloise and I stayed on Patnem beach long after the season had finished, and became close with a lot of the beach dogs that live here full-time long after the tourists have gone home. They are full of personality and character, and like hanging out with their human counterparts!

    The majority of the stray dogs in the area have been spayed or neutered, aswell as receiving a critical rabies jab. You can tell the treated dogs as they have a little chip out of their ears to help identify them!

    We named this dog 'Handkerchief', but was actually called Suki!

    Our secondary guard dog, 'Al'

    All the beach dogs look reasonably healthy, as they are fed largely by tourist left-overs.

    But what about during the long off-season and monsoon months?

    Our friend Janine runs the Animal Rescue Centre, helping animals from all over South Goa. She feeds the dogs along the 3 most popular beaches in South Goa; Agonda, Palolem and Patnem during the off-season from her own pocket and donations made to the centre.

    Check out the Animal Rescue Centre site, and check it out on Facebook. Any support helps!

    Animal Rescue Centre – http://www.arcgoa.in/

    It's a dogs life…